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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.